Fish Paradise is prominent in providing of Planted Aquarium service in the Pune City.
Of the regular and exotic plants are readily available with us. "Rosette" or "crown" plants are planted individually in the substrate. Make sure that the crown itself is above the substrate surface. Only the roots should be buried. This is also true for the thick rhizome of Anubias plants.
Stem plants are usually sold in rootless "bunches". They should be removed from their elastic band or lead weight, and planted no more than 3 stems at a time. They will quickly root themselves under good conditions. If they tend to float out of the substrate in the beginning, you can place a few small stones around the base. Another trick is to leave them floating for a week or so. Usually they will have begun to develop roots in that period of time, and it will be much easier to keep them down.
Water Sprite can either be left floating, or planted in the substrate.
Salvinia (and several other similar small plants) are floaters. Remember that they increase quickly, and remove most of them when you do other tank maintenance. Don't let more than 1/3 of the water surface become covered with these plants.
Java Moss can be either left loose, or tied (or stapled) onto driftwood.
Java Fern does not usually do well with its roots in the gravel. It is best to tie or rubber band this plant to rocks or driftwood. You can even just wedge some in between two stones.
Any plants that come in plastic pots should be removed from the plastic pots, (this may require cutting the pot away with scissors) and have the rockwool removed from their roots before planting. The rockwool is used to grow the plants, and protects the roots during shipment, but it may contain hydroponic solution which can cause algae problems in the aquarium.
Wait at least 1 week, preferably 2 before adding fish to the tank.
At the two week mark, you can add algae eating fish. Ghost or Glass shrimp are also good algae eaters, and are interesting to watch, but will most likely become fish food once the tank is fully populated. You'll have to decide whether your kids (and parents!) can handle that or not. Farlowella catfish are excellent algae eaters for larger tanks.
Do not feed your algae eating residents for another two weeks. Their job is to eat any algae as it appears. They won't do that if you make life too easy for them.
At the end of the first month, your plants should have settled in and be growing well. The algae eaters should be keeping up with most algae, although it is still normal to need to clean the glass from time to time. At this point, you can start stocking your tank with its final residents. You can also begin your regular maintenance routine.
Don't fall into the trap of overstocking the tank, either in terms of numbers of fish or numbers of species. In a 10 gallon tank, 3-4 species is more than adequate, while the 20-30 gallon tanks can accommodate a few more. The fish will display more natural behaviors than if the tank is stocked with the "Ark mentality" (two of these and two of those).
If you want to be completely true to your geographical theme, you can choose plants native to those areas as well.
If possible, pick one species that stays near the surface, one species that is a mid water swimmer, and another that stays near the bottom. Make sure you buy multiples of any schooling fish. An absolute minimum number of any schooling species is 3-5 individuals, 12 or more will allow true schooling behavior.
Steer clear of fish that are known to be scrappy unless you have an experienced aquarist that can help you plan a community around them. There are so many beautiful, interesting and peaceful species available that it makes no sense to set yourself up for problems. Also avoid fish that are known plant eaters.
Once you have decided on the population mix for your tank, add them slowly. Bring in one species the first week, another the next until the tank is fully stocked. This will allow the good bacteria in the filter to adjust slowly to the increasing bioload.